November 18, 2012

• NYC Eats @ Per Se - Sunday night was supposed to be our last night in New York, and so we booked a table at Per Se for a “grand finale”. But because of super storm Sandy, we got news on Sunday morning that our Monday flight back home has been cancelled. What to do? Well, not much we could do regarding the situation but just to have dinner first and then worry about that later.

  Now back to Per Se. This restaurant is owned by chef Thomas Keller who is also involved in the restaurants French Laundry, Ad Hoc and Bouchon in Napa Valley, California. Why did the chef name the restaurant “Per Se”? The name actually came from the ampersand symbol “&”. The word “ampersand” is a contraction of the words “and per se and”, chef Keller also found out that the phrase “per se” was Latin for “by itself”. This captured what he wanted the restaurant to be, something that was unique from French Laundry, but that did not lose sight of where it came from. Per Se opened in February 2004, occupying quite a secluded spot on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center, at Columbus Circle.

  Per Se’s entrance, with its pair of iconic blue doors, evidently modeled after the blue doors at the French Laundry. But as we approach, we realize that these are just a facade, glass doors to either side just swoosh open, inviting us in. These decorative doors pay homage to the Laundry, by making them fake, the idea was to signal that Per Se was to be its own restaurant.
  

  Tonight’s Chef’s Tasting Menu. Each night, Per Se offers at least two menus of French-influenced contemporary American fare, one Chef’s Tasting Menu and a Tasting of Vegetables, each is nine-courses, with pricing inclusive of service and non-alcoholic beverages…..
  

  At the bottom is fleur de sel butter from Vermont, on the right is sweet butter from California; (center) there are six different kinds of salt to choose from…..
  

  Canapé 1 – Gruyère Gougères, petit delicious gougères, with creamy Gruyère cheese in the batter…..
  

  Canapé 2 – Salmon Coronets, smoked salmon coronets/crowns flavoured with sweetbreads, the cone made with black sesame tuile with a crunchy texture…..
  

  Hmmm…..what’s next??
  

  Oysters and Pearls – “Sabayon” of pearl tapioca, with Island Creek oysters and Sterling white sturgeon caviar…..
  

  Salad of Compressed Apples – “Pain Perdue”, braised chestnuts, celery greens, spiced cider and sorrel…..
  

  Hot Smoked Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras, crispy oats, green tomato relish, Hakurei turnlips, red onion rings and watercress…..
  

  Colombia River Sturgeon, pickled Cipollini onions, acorn squash, toasted hazelnuts, garden máche and coffee emulsion…..
  

  Hand Harvested Maine Sea Scallop, “Cherry Bomb” radishes, salsify root, pea tendrils, and mushrooms ” à la Grecque”…..
  

  Diamond H Ranch Quail Breast, slow baked beets, petite lettuces, Niçoise olive vinaigrette…..
  

  Herb Roasted Elysian Fields Farm Lamb, “Petite Salé”, heirloom carrots, jingle bell peppers, medjool dates, pumpkin seeds and curry jus…..
  

  “Toma Wasler”, “spätzle”, California pistachios, broccoli “Florettes”, and Burgundy mustard…..
  

  “Prickly Pear”, “biscuit cuillère”, limoncello, “panna cotta”, pear soda and white wine granité…..
  

  Butterscotch “Pudding” , caramelized popcorn, chocolate custard, whipped Earl Grey tea, and “Beurre de Paris”…..
  

  Mignardises 1 – ice cream sandwich…..
  

  Mignardises 2 – assorted macarons, salted caramels, chocolate truffles, walnut nougat…..
  

  

  Mignardises 3 – assorted house made chocolates…..
  

  

  

  Complimentary dessert – cappacino ice cream, whipped crémé, sugar donuts in the background…..
  

  Cookies, chocolate filled…..
  

  The entire dinner lasted almost 3.5 hours, the food was delicious and service was flawless, to say the least. At $295 per person, before wine (service included), this level of dining definitely does not come cheap. Yet, I left with a feeling that I would never eat that well again, or be treated to such sublime service.

  Because of the storm situation, we were “trapped” in NYC for the next few days…….

  Per Se | 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019 | 212-823-9335 | www.perseny.com

  • 5:12 pm
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